Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Best's and Worst's of Nepal



Nepal is simply a lovely country. The scenery, food, and the people are lovely. Most of the ~80 days we spent there were wonderful in every possible way, and in the end we were very sad to leave. Nepal is a country that penetrates your heart and soul, and there is no doubt in our minds that we will return some day-hopefully soon. Our time in Nepal granted us some fine views of the tallest mountains on earth and glimpses of many aspects of Nepal’s rich culture. There is no place like Nepal! With that in mind we have put together our “Best’s and Worst’s.” These are divided into two sections: one for Nepal, in general, and the other for the Everest Trek. Namaste, Nepal. Enjoy!



Nepal By the Numbers

Days in Nepal: 44+34 =78

World Heritage Sites Visited: 5

Days Trekking: 31 (26 in Everest, 5 in the Annapurna Region on the Poon Hill trek)

Days of hell stuck in Lukla: 7

Consecutive Days of Yoga: 6

Hours of walking (approx. 6 hours/day): 156 on the Everest Trek, 30 on the Poon Hill trek

Highest Point: Kala Patthar- 18,208 feet

Distance Walked: Approx. 180 miles (150 for Everest, about 30 for Poon Hill)

Elevation Gained on the Everest Trek (total of all uphill sections): Approx. 38,000 feet (give or take a few)

National Parks/Natural Areas Visited: 3

Bus Rides: 5

Helicopter rides: 1

Ripped Pants: 1 (Nick is happily wearing his brand new Sherpa brand trekking pants)

Plates of Dal Bhat (lentils and rice) consumed: Too many to count

Showers taken by each of us in 34 days (Everest): 5 (An average of once a week while trekking!)

Longest stretch w/o a shower (Everest): 10 days (Namche to the end of the Lukla flight delay)

Photos Taken: 3964 (~50/day)



Nepal Best’s

Best Day

Nick: The trek from Ghorepani to Tadapani-great, great views all day, plus a wonderful sunset

Rachel: New Years Eve – Trekked down the mountain and had a beautiful dinner in Pokhara

Best City/Town

Nick: Bhaktapur, great architecture and a laid-back feel

Rachel: Pokhara

Best National Park

Nick: Sagarmatha (Everest) NP

Rachel: Sagarmatha (Everest) NP

Best Meal

Nick: Dinner at The Third Eye in Kathmandu after our release from Lukla-tandoori chicken at its best

Rachel: dinner at La Dolce Vita in Kathmandu –great Italian food!

Best Wildlife Experience

Nick: Running into a rare musk deer on our way down from Gokyo-what a cute animal

Rachel: Early morning run-in with 2 rhinos while on foot – yikes!

Best View

Nick: Sunset from our lodge in Tadapani on the Poon Hill trek

Rachel: sunset from Tadapani

Best Surprise

Nick: The experience of riding on an elephant in Chitwan

Rachel: How much I love pouring salt water up my nose!!!

Best Hotel/Hostel

Nick: The North Face Inn, Pokhara

Rachel: The North Face Inn, Pokhara

Place to which we’d most like to return

Nick: Trekking to the Annapurna Sanctuary-we were so close

Rachel: The jungle to try and see a tiger!

Most Fun

Nick: Christmas booze cruise on Phewa Lake with Cheryl and Ryan in Pokhara

Rachel: yeah, the booze cruise for sure

Funniest Moment

Nick: Running into one of our Lukla partners, Geoff, in the middle of the jungle nearly 2 months after we parted ways-totally random

Rachel: ditto – especially the way that I yelled “LUKLA!!” the moment I saw him



Nepal Worst’s

Worst City/Town

Nick: None really-Patan if I really had to choose

Rachel: None

Worst Meal

Nick: Every meal at Island Jungle Resort in Chitwan

Rachel: ditto

Biggest Waste of Money

Nick: Probably the Chitwan safari, but it was still pretty cool

Rachel: ditto

Most Disappointing Moment

Nick: Missing Bandipur due to a transportation strike

Rachel: the yoga classes at our yoga retreat (maybe I’m a yoga snob, but the classes were just not good)

Worst Hotel/Hostel:

Nick: Hotel Encounter, Kathmandu, although it had its redeeming points

Rachel: ditto

Saddest Moment

Nick: The street kids in Kathmandu-they beg, get high sniffing glue, and smoke cigarettess

Rachel: Waving goodbye to Dev (our guide) in the airport upon leaving Nepal for the second time



Everest Trek Best’s

Best Day

Nick: The hike from Namche to Deboche (Great views the whole day followed by a splendid sunset)

Rachel: walking down from Gorekshep to Pheriche

Betsy: Hike from Lobuche to Gorakshep. Misty day cleared into beautiful views of snow covered mountains.

Favorite Mountain

Nick: Nuptse or Tabuche or Pumo Ri or Lhotse (I can have 4 favorites)

Rachel: I liked them all

Betsy: Ama Da-BLAM and Tabuche

Favorite Section of Trail

Nick: Machermo to Gokyo (Beautiful views of Cho Oyu and the Gokyo Lakes)

Rachel: Dingboche to Labouche

Betsy: Ditto Rachel

Best Lodge

Nick: The White Yak in Pheriche

Rachel: Hotel Namche, in Namche Bazaar

Betsy: Ditto Nick

Best Meal

Nick: Dal Bhat at Hotel Namche

Rachel: Dal Bhat at Hotel Namche

Betsy: Ditto

Best View

Nick: The top of Gokyo Ri

Rachel: The view from the 5th Gokyo Lake

Betsy: Ditto Rachel

Funniest Moment

Nick: Watching one of our bags roll 100 feet down a big hill.

Rachel: Laughing hysterically as Nick masqueraded around our room late at night (ahem, after 7pm) wrapped in a blanket with the words “miss you” written all over it

Betsy: Tie: Debating with Nick whether the fact that a large dog resembles a small bear actually means they are closely related. Turning into a sloth bear at Lukla.

Biggest Surprise

Nick: Praying with the Buddhist monks at the Thupten Chholing Monastery near Junbesi

Rachel: How happy I was to still be walking after 26 days!

Betsy: Getting altitude sickness at only 7000 ft! Strange! Hurray for Diamox!



Everest Trek Worst’s

Hardest Day

Nick: The trek from Thukla to Lobuche (I had horrible nausea from the high altitude)

Rachel: Hiking up Kala Patthar, feeling like I was going to puke

Betsy: Phortse Tenga to Machermo...no energy left!

Least Favorite Section of Trail

Nick: Pheriche to Phortse (beautiful but scary)

Rachel: anytime we spent too much time going downhill

Betsy: Lukla to Surke (can that count?)

Worst Meal

Nick: None stand out to me

Rachel: the whole cockroach I found in my lunch the last day in Lukla (yuck)

Betsy: Fingernail in soup doesn’t beat cockroach but sure was gross

Worst Lodge

Nick: Machhermo (I can’t remember its name)

Rachel: The Khumbu Resort in Lukla

Betsy: Machermo- had to use floor mat to stay warm...not enough potatoes

Least Favorite Moment

Nick: Every time I had us the restroom at the Khumbu Resort, Lukla-honestly this was the grossest bathroom in the world, and we have seen some gross bathrooms)

Rachel: getting vertigo from the steep trails

Betsy: Weeping at last high point before reaching Machermo because I was so tired and felt so sorry for myself. Haha.

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Who we are

We, Nick and Rachel, are a couple of world-traveling botanists from California in search of adventure, exciting food, culture and nature. This blog is our attempt to keep in touch with our friends, family, and followers as we explore Asia and beyond over the next 10+ months starting in early-July 2010. I hope you enjoy our stories, photos, and experiences.


Our Plan


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2010

July-Mid-August : Malaysia
Mid-August-October: Indonesia
October-November: Nepal
Late-November-Early December: India
late-December: Nepal

2011

January-February:
Thailand, Laos, Cambodia

Late February, March-April: New Zealand
Late April: Fiji
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