A Warm Welcome to the Land of Smiles

10-12 January 2010

We are surrounded by Thai food. Thai food!!! The streets are clean(ish), the sun is shining, and we are wearing shorts. Welcome to Thailand, the “Land of Smiles.” After a long layover in the Delhi airport and an overnight flight we arrived in Bangkok. After more than 3 months in the Indian subcontinent, we are happy to be back in Southeast Asia. Goodbye chapatti and dal baht, hello Massamam curry, mango sticky rice, and pad thai.

We spent three days in Bangkok soaking up the heat, stuffing ourselves with the local cuisine (we love Thai food), seeing the sites, and marveling at the novelty of 24-hour electricity. On day one we made our way via tuk-tuk (we are very glad that drivers of the very similar “auto-rickshaws” in India don’t drive as fast as they do in Bangkok) to the MPK mall. Rarely do we really (me especially) want to visit malls, but MPK is a spectacle worth seeing. Each of its 7 stories spans several city blocks and is jam-packed with shops and stalls filled with merchandise. Prada, Gucci, Jimmy Choo, Dior-you have your pick. You want a Rolex? No problem. A purse that retails for $2000 maybe costs $50, and you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference. Designer jeans, pirated software, perfumes, and DVDs of movies still in the theater are all available. All of the stuff is fake, illegally copied, but much of it is really well-done. Being the nerds that we are, all we bought was a book. Ha. We left MPK for a nice long, sultry walk back to our guesthouse. Not far from the mall Rachel screamed and hurriedly jumped forward. Not knowing what was going on (as usual), she quickly informed me that she had tried to avoid, but ended up stepping on a (live) rat (it survived). It was a quick reminder to us-you are still very much in Asia.

On Day 2 we strapped on our walking shoes and set out to explore more of Bangkok. Miles and miles of walking took us to Chinatown (Why are Chinese districts in most cities so strangely similar?) where we struggled through crowded markets marveling at the fact that everything (okay, nearly everything, including the kitchen sink) is for sale. What would you do with all of that dried squid? While in Chinatown we stumbled upon several wats. What is that? It’s a wat. A what? No, a wat-you know like Wat Traimit, a temple where they keep the largest golden Budddha. Wat Traimit, by the way, is really beautiful, and a great place to worship a gigantic golden Buddha.

Moving on into the afternoon, dripping with sweat, we made our way to Wat Pho, the home of the largest reclining Buddha. Stopping outside the wat I was enticed to buy some satay that was being cooked outside the entrance. After devouring it, I said “that wasn’t chicken”. Rachel responded “well, what was it?” “I don’t know, but it was good”. I love Thailand.

Wat Pho has a lot more to offer than mystery meat and Buddhas getting horizontal. Its array of courtyards, filled with statues, brightly painted temples, and towering spires is truly enchanting. After a couple hours of wandering we still hadn’t found the “main event.” Finally we found the long lines of tourists and obnoxious tour groups-oh yeah this is where we love to be, where the real good stuff is. Once we were herded into to the temple of the reclining Buddha (Buddha is sooo tired) it was hard not to be impressed. Elbowing our way to a good vantage point we gazed at a gold painted Buddha nearly 150 feet long and over 50 feet tall resting with his head in his hand (so cute). Reclining Buddha, you make us feel small.

More walking and a stop for some beer and spicy noodles led us to the backpacker haven of Khao San Road. What a seedy, unattractive part of town! Why would anyone want to stay here? On second thought—you all stay here and we will go back to our charming guesthouse in the Silom District. And that is just what we did. We walked down to the Chao Phraya River and bought a 1-way river boat ticket (about 50 cents-so cheap) back to our part of town. In the fading twilight we jetted along the river past numerous temples (What wat is that?), office buildings, and fancy high rise hotels-the lights of Bangkok illuminating another balmy Thai night.

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Best's and Worst's of Nepal

Nepal is simply a lovely country. The scenery, food, and the people are lovely. Most of the ~80 days we spent there were wonderful in every possible way, and in the end we were very sad to leave. Nepal is a country that penetrates your heart and soul, and there is no doubt in our minds that we will return some day-hopefully soon. Our time in Nepal granted us some fine views of the tallest mountains on earth and glimpses of many aspects of Nepal’s rich culture. There is no place like Nepal! With that in mind we have put together our “Best’s and Worst’s.” These are divided into two sections: one for Nepal, in general, and the other for the Everest Trek. Namaste, Nepal. Enjoy!

Nepal By the Numbers

Days in Nepal: 44+34 =78

World Heritage Sites Visited: 5

Days Trekking: 31 (26 in Everest, 5 in the Annapurna Region on the Poon Hill trek)

Days of hell stuck in Lukla: 7

Consecutive Days of Yoga: 6

Hours of walking (approx. 6 hours/day): 156 on the Everest Trek, 30 on the Poon Hill trek

Highest Point: Kala Patthar- 18,208 feet

Distance Walked: Approx. 180 miles (150 for Everest, about 30 for Poon Hill)

Elevation Gained on the Everest Trek (total of all uphill sections): Approx. 38,000 feet (give or take a few)

National Parks/Natural Areas Visited: 3

Bus Rides: 5

Helicopter rides: 1

Ripped Pants: 1 (Nick is happily wearing his brand new Sherpa brand trekking pants)

Plates of Dal Bhat (lentils and rice) consumed: Too many to count

Showers taken by each of us in 34 days (Everest): 5 (An average of once a week while trekking!)

Longest stretch w/o a shower (Everest): 10 days (Namche to the end of the Lukla flight delay)

Photos Taken: 3964 (~50/day)

Nepal Best’s

Best Day

Nick: The trek from Ghorepani to Tadapani-great, great views all day, plus a wonderful sunset

Rachel: New Years Eve – Trekked down the mountain and had a beautiful dinner in Pokhara

Best City/Town

Nick: Bhaktapur, great architecture and a laid-back feel

Rachel: Pokhara

Best National Park

Nick: Sagarmatha (Everest) NP

Rachel: Sagarmatha (Everest) NP

Best Meal

Nick: Dinner at The Third Eye in Kathmandu after our release from Lukla-tandoori chicken at its best

Rachel: dinner at La Dolce Vita in Kathmandu –great Italian food!

Best Wildlife Experience

Nick: Running into a rare musk deer on our way down from Gokyo-what a cute animal

Rachel: Early morning run-in with 2 rhinos while on foot – yikes!

Best View

Nick: Sunset from our lodge in Tadapani on the Poon Hill trek

Rachel: sunset from Tadapani

Best Surprise

Nick: The experience of riding on an elephant in Chitwan

Rachel: How much I love pouring salt water up my nose!!!

Best Hotel/Hostel

Nick: The North Face Inn, Pokhara

Rachel: The North Face Inn, Pokhara

Place to which we’d most like to return

Nick: Trekking to the Annapurna Sanctuary-we were so close

Rachel: The jungle to try and see a tiger!

Most Fun

Nick: Christmas booze cruise on Phewa Lake with Cheryl and Ryan in Pokhara

Rachel: yeah, the booze cruise for sure

Funniest Moment

Nick: Running into one of our Lukla partners, Geoff, in the middle of the jungle nearly 2 months after we parted ways-totally random

Rachel: ditto – especially the way that I yelled “LUKLA!!” the moment I saw him

Nepal Worst’s

Worst City/Town

Nick: None really-Patan if I really had to choose

Rachel: None

Worst Meal

Nick: Every meal at Island Jungle Resort in Chitwan

Rachel: ditto

Biggest Waste of Money

Nick: Probably the Chitwan safari, but it was still pretty cool

Rachel: ditto

Most Disappointing Moment

Nick: Missing Bandipur due to a transportation strike

Rachel: the yoga classes at our yoga retreat (maybe I’m a yoga snob, but the classes were just not good)

Worst Hotel/Hostel:

Nick: Hotel Encounter, Kathmandu, although it had its redeeming points

Rachel: ditto

Saddest Moment

Nick: The street kids in Kathmandu-they beg, get high sniffing glue, and smoke cigarettess

Rachel: Waving goodbye to Dev (our guide) in the airport upon leaving Nepal for the second time

Everest Trek Best’s

Best Day

Nick: The hike from Namche to Deboche (Great views the whole day followed by a splendid sunset)

Rachel: walking down from Gorekshep to Pheriche

Betsy: Hike from Lobuche to Gorakshep. Misty day cleared into beautiful views of snow covered mountains.

Favorite Mountain

Nick: Nuptse or Tabuche or Pumo Ri or Lhotse (I can have 4 favorites)

Rachel: I liked them all

Betsy: Ama Da-BLAM and Tabuche

Favorite Section of Trail

Nick: Machermo to Gokyo (Beautiful views of Cho Oyu and the Gokyo Lakes)

Rachel: Dingboche to Labouche

Betsy: Ditto Rachel

Best Lodge

Nick: The White Yak in Pheriche

Rachel: Hotel Namche, in Namche Bazaar

Betsy: Ditto Nick

Best Meal

Nick: Dal Bhat at Hotel Namche

Rachel: Dal Bhat at Hotel Namche

Betsy: Ditto

Best View

Nick: The top of Gokyo Ri

Rachel: The view from the 5^th Gokyo Lake

Betsy: Ditto Rachel

Funniest Moment

Nick: Watching one of our bags roll 100 feet down a big hill.

Rachel: Laughing hysterically as Nick masqueraded around our room late at night (ahem, after 7pm) wrapped in a blanket with the words “miss you” written all over it

Betsy: Tie: Debating with Nick whether the fact that a large dog resembles a small bear actually means they are closely related. Turning into a sloth bear at Lukla.

Biggest Surprise

Nick: Praying with the Buddhist monks at the Thupten Chholing Monastery near Junbesi

Rachel: How happy I was to still be walking after 26 days!

Betsy: Getting altitude sickness at only 7000 ft! Strange! Hurray for Diamox!

Everest Trek Worst’s

Hardest Day

Nick: The trek from Thukla to Lobuche (I had horrible nausea from the high altitude)

Rachel: Hiking up Kala Patthar, feeling like I was going to puke

Betsy: Phortse Tenga to Machermo...no energy left!

Least Favorite Section of Trail

Nick: Pheriche to Phortse (beautiful but scary)

Rachel: anytime we spent too much time going downhill

Betsy: Lukla to Surke (can that count?)

Worst Meal

Nick: None stand out to me

Rachel: the whole cockroach I found in my lunch the last day in Lukla (yuck)

Betsy: Fingernail in soup doesn’t beat cockroach but sure was gross

Worst Lodge

Nick: Machhermo (I can’t remember its name)

Rachel: The Khumbu Resort in Lukla

Betsy: Machermo- had to use floor mat to stay warm...not enough potatoes

Least Favorite Moment

Nick: Every time I had us the restroom at the Khumbu Resort, Lukla-honestly this was the grossest bathroom in the world, and we have seen some gross bathrooms)

Rachel: getting vertigo from the steep trails

Betsy: Weeping at last high point before reaching Machermo because I was so tired and felt so sorry for myself. Haha.

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Rhinos, tiger scat, and sloth bear scare! Oh my!

5-7 January 2011

Within minutes of arriving on an island in the middle of the Narayani River in Chitwan National Park we were riding on an elephant in search of wildlife. While I was slightly disturbed by burdening this beautiful animal by riding on its back, I was quickly entranced by its graceful maneuvers and its alarming ability to snap arm-sized braches with a twist of its trunk. As we rode along at the level of the secondary canopy, we were able to closely examine the dense green jungle and its stands of 20 foot high elephant grass (Saccharum sp.). Rambling along seemingly nonexistent paths, we began to notice that our elephant took a particular glee in coiling thin vines around his trunk and pulling on them until large sections of the canopy came crashing down around us. He seemed a little disgruntled, like a 5 year old boy begging for someone to watch him jump off a swing set.

Luckily for us, one of the groups had spotted a one-horned rhino. The elephant handlers communicated in the forest with a series of loud shouts and suddenly we were traveling at full speed (and hanging on for dear life) towards a distant “cooeee”. We made it to where the rhino was in just a few minutes and came within just a few meters of where a rhino was quietly munching on a tree. The rhino was huge and its skin had the strange appearance of concrete. The one thing I especially liked about this half ton of animal was its adorable little ears. They looked soft, twitched with every small noise, and had a more delicate texture than the rest of the beast. So cute! After a few minutes of pure voyeurism the rhino escaped into the dense vegetation and was out of view --- I think our presence annoyed him. Happy to have seen such an awesome animal, we all headed back to camp.

At dinner that night we were surprised to find our Lukla-mate Geoff was amongst the 20 or so guests staying on the island. We were all trapped in Lukla together back in November when our flights were cancelled for bad weather. Geoff was smart enough to get out after just five days, while we lingered for eight. He had returned to Nepal after a month and a half to do some paragliding near Pokhara. What are the chances of that?

Over the next two days we spent a lot of time walking, driving, and riding elephants looking for wildlife. And while the forest was beautiful and I was particularly infatuated with the riparian forest (who needs tigers?)- we really didn’t see much. When our guide gave us our “jungle instructions” he became very nervous when he got to the part about the sloth bear. His leg began to involuntarily shake, his eyes got a little larger, and his voice haltingly exclaimed “the most dangerous animal of them all”. This made me giggle a little as we had been joking about the sloth bear since October (the Lonely Planet for Nepal claims that sloth bears attack humans because they “hate our faces”). Maybe there is some truth to that statement after all…

On our last morning we went for a nature walk and ran into two rhinos munching on the understory vegetation. We were only about 20 feet away and our guides hurried us away to a safer distance (we practically ran away). From a safe distance, we nervously watched as the rhinos grazed and hoped that they would not become aware of our presence. If a rhino charges you, you are supposed to run “jig jag” and try to climb a tree. If a rhino catches up to you and hits you, you would probably die. Being trampled to death by a rhino- now that’s a trip-ender!

On the seven hour bus ride back to Kathmandu we reminisced about our short stay in the jungle: three one-horned rhinos, fresh tiger prints, steaming tiger scat, gharial crocodiles, a large python, getting close and personal with a few elephants, and beautiful riparian forests. Not too bad.

We are now SE Asia bound, heading back to the humidity and some island time! Thailand here we come!

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Trekking in the New Year

27-31 December 2010

Walking up the 3,000+ steps from Tikedhunga to Ghorepani a strangely familiar and uncommonly wonderful smell fills the air. Where is that coming from and what is it? After a few moments we soon realized that the understory of the evergreen oak forest is dotted with blooming Daphne shrubs. Both Rachel and I, consider this beautiful, winter-blooming genus one of our favorites. Trudging uphill we stopped over and over to breathe deeply and enjoy one of nature's most sublime aromas.

The trail starts from Nayapul, approximately 1.5 hours by Taxi from Pokhara and ascends relentlessly over the course of three days. We loaded our backpacks with sleeping bags, down jackets and warm clothing (it is winter here in Nepal too) and started out with an easy stroll along the Modi River. After a brief stop at a teahouse for lunch we reached the small picturesque town of Tikedhunga. From Tikedhunga the trail turns sharply skyward, a seemingly never-ending stone staircase consisting of somewhere between 3000 and 4000 (yikes!) stairs. Over the course of the first two days of the trek the trail gains nearly 6000 feet in elevation.

On night one we stopped in the small town of Ulleri, perched on a steep hillside with beautiful views of the massive mountains, Annapurna South and Hiunchuli (we had to work a lot harder for views like this on our Everest trek). From Ulleri, on day 2, we continued uphill past numerous waterfalls, breathing deeply and inhaling the beautiful scent of blooming Daphnes, arriving at Ghorepani (9200 feet) early in the afternoon. The views from Ghorepani and the adjacent Poon Hill are simply breathtaking. In a mountainous country where grand views verge on becoming common, the view from Poon Hill is special. Spanning from right to left Dhalaugiri (the world's 7th highest mountain), Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, and Machhapuchhare (aka Fishtail Mountain), and countless other peaks are all visible. From the top of Poon Hill at sundown the very tip of Annapurna I (the world's 10th highest peak) burns in golden light.

From Ghorepani, on day three, the trail climbs steeply over 1300 feet to Deorali Pass. From there, a grand 360 degree view encompasses dozens of high Himalayan peaks and distant views of Nepal's southern plains (known as the Terai) extending toward the Indian border. After a long descent along raging streams and waterfalls draped with icicles in shady sections, the trail ascends sharply to Tadapani. As we settled into the Magnificent Lodge, perched on a hill above the town, we watched as the evening light softened on yet another, even more grand panorama of mountains. From Tadapani, views of Annapurna South and Fishtail Mountain (truly one of the most beautiful mountains I have ever seen) are unobstructed. The glorious orange alpenglow that graced these mountains that evening will forever be burned in our minds.

After a long cold night and majestic sunrise in Tadapani we descended through dense moss-draped oak and conifer forest to the picturesque town of Ghandruk. Along the way we watched as a large band of Himalayan langur monkeys crashed and bounded through the canopy. We settled into the splendid Gurung Cottage, and much to our delight were served a steaming pot of fresh roasted French press coffee (a nice change of pace from the trekkers diet of Nescafe). We went to bed to clear, starry skies, but were awoken on New Years Eve to dense clouds and mist. Huddling for warmth in bed, stirred by a commotion, we rushed outside to witness a large avalanche plummet down the face of Annapurna South. Fearing an unfavorable change in the weather we packed our bags and began the long descent back to the trailhead. We hailed a waiting taxi and made it to Pokhara just as the rain began to fall.

After a couple of days of rest we are ready to hit the road and complete our final week of travel in Nepal. After a brief stop in town of Bandipur we will head out on a wildlife safari in Chitwan National Park. Leopards, tigers, and sloth bears, oh my!

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Best’s and Worst’s of India

We were lucky enough to spend a few weeks in India with Sarah (Rachel’s sister) and Kevin (Rachel’s cousin) and we couldn’t have had better company. Anyone who can handle 18+ hours of riding on a train in a cramped compartment is OK by me. While this is a little late (we blame what we imagine must have been non-stop Christmas cookie eating), we hope you enjoy our best’s and worst’s of India! Note: This is the definitely a PG version of the worst’s (see Nick’s post on WTFI if you would like a more colorful take on the wonderful world of India).

By the numbers

Days in India: 18

National Parks/Natural Areas Visited: 0

World Heritage Sites Visited: 3 (many of the sites we visited should be on the list, but aren’t)

Stomach Illnesses: 1 (Delhi Belly tracked Sarah down, I am not sure how the rest of us were unscathed)

Flights: 0

Train Rides: 5

Time spent on trains: 42 hours (nearly 2 days!)

Crazy Car Rides: 1 (One is enough)

Numbers of Lassies (yogurt drink) and Pounds of Paneer Cheese Consumed: Too many to count

Forts Visited: 4

Photos Taken By Nick: 2290 (an average of 127/day-this average seems to be increasing…)

Photos Taken By Kevin: 2976 (including my stops in London)

Best’s

Best Day

Nick: Waking up at sunrise to see the Taj Mahal, then going to see the Baby Taj at sundown, then having a great Thanksgiving meal overlooking the Taj

Rachel: the day we went to see Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur (minus the awful car ride)

Sarah: The day of the Taj Mahal as well. We had fun driving around in that auto-richshaw with our driver Lucky, and the dinner that night was amazing!!

Kevin: Running around Kumbhalgarh fort…seriously cool place you can get lost in!

Best City/Town

Nick: Jaisalmer

Rachel: Jaisalmer

Sarah: Jaisalmer – but I did like Udaipur a lot, too!

Kevin:Jaisalmer

Best Meal

Nick: Our rooftop Thanksgiving feast in Agra

Rachel: Anytime I was eating Palak Paneer

Sarah: The night we were. . .Or I would say the Thanksgiving dinner, too.

Kevin: Taj Thanks Giving – Good food, good people, King Fisher, AND the Taj!

Best View

Nick: The views of and from Kumbhalgarh Fort

Rachel: ditto to Nick

Sarah: Agree with Nick and Rachel, and the view from our Thanksgiving dinner of the Taj

Kevin: My fort bedroom in Jaisalmer!

Best Surprise

Nick: Amber Fort (I was awed by the whole place)

Rachel: how scary riding a camel was…like a rollercoaster (ok, not really)

Sarah: How beautiful Jaisalmer was and how freakin’ amazing our Haveli/hotel was!! (Worst Surprise: THE DELHI BELLY!!)

Kevin: When Nick and I actually got our money back after not entering the Udaipur City Palace…without a fight!

Best Hotel/Hostel

Nick: Suraj Hotel in Jaisalmer

Rachel:Suraj Hotel in Jaisalmer

Sarah: Suraj Hotel/Haveli!

Kevin: Suraj Hotel - Jaisalmer

Place to which we’d most like to return

Nick: The Taj Mahal

Rachel: Maybe one day we can go somewhere else in India…otherwise- Jaisalmer

Sarah: Eh… Jaisalmer – But if I ever return to India, I won’t be returning to the North, because I never need to fly through Delhi again. So – none, I’d go to the South.

Kevin: Jaisalmer

Favorite Train Ride

Nick: From Agra to Jaipur (beautiful sunrise and scenery)

Rachel: From Delhi to Agra. They served us breakfast with a nice view.

Sarah: Delhi to Agra – painless, breakfast & the infamous views of morning activities on the railroad tracks J

Kevin: Agra to Jaipur – not just the trains use the tracks…the people do too!

Most Fun

Nick: Riding a camel

Rachel: riding a camel

Sarah: Eating (when I wasn’t sick) and seeing that wedding parade in Udaipur!

Kevin: Not to go with the crowd, but camel riding!

Funniest Moment

Nick: How obsessed Indian men were with my “Ali Baba” beard. On numerous occasions I was asked “How much did it cost?” or “Can I touch it?” or “Where did you get it?”

Rachel: The crowd of 30 or so men that were captivated by Kevin while we waited for a train at 11pm in Jaipur (this was more seriously amusing than funny)

Sarah: Rachel’s camel’s gas problem. Or one of Nick’s “that’s what she said” remarks.

Kevin: Watching literally all of India wake up and perform the morning ritual from the train to Jaipur.

Worst’s

Worst City/Town

Nick: Delhi, Delhi, Delhi (Is there a worse city in the world?)

Rachel: Jaipur…the honking made me crazy (Delhi is a given)

Sarah: Agreed with Delhi. Second worse = Jaipur.

Kevin: There can be only one…Delhi

Worst Meal

Nick: Golden Peacock beer (not exactly a meal, but it was horrible)

Rachel: anytime we skipped lunch

Sarah: Food was usually awesome. The feeling of being sick when looking/smelling Indian food while I was ill. Tragic.

Kevin: Breakfast on the flight to Delhi…Indian food we had was always good!

Biggest Waste of Money

Nick: The City Palace in Jaipur (300 rupees for nothing)

Rachel: being overcharged for absolutely EVERYTHING

Sarah: CITY PALACE of Jaipur! F that.

Kevin:Jaipur City Palace, although I did get pictures of a cute little Indian girl!

Most Disappointing Moment

Nick: Arriving in Delhi after the long train ride from Jaisalmer

Rachel: being kicked out of a store for haggling too much…

Sarah: Agreed with both of Nick and Rachel’s statements. I forgot how awful Delhi was by the time we returned. But I was so pissed off/disappointed with that man for not selling us his block stamps!!

Kevin: Finding out dust in a train can wake you up…there’s no escape!

Worst Hotel/Hostel:

Nick: The Taj Plaza in Agra (actually this place is not bad, but it was the worst place we stayed)

Rachel: Ditto to Nick, however some of the staff were super nice

Sarah: Taj Plaza/Agra and the danky bathroom!!!!

Kevin:Taj Plaza with by far the worst bathroom!

Saddest Moment

Nick: Watching 8-year-olds do drugs (presumably heroin) on the street in Delhi

Rachel: Watching as bodies were being burned across the river in Agra

Sarah: Delhi. Everything about Delhi.

Kevin: Leaving everyone, I had a great time in India and it’s all due to the company!

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Yoga School Rock

18-24 December 2010

During our weeklong stint as “real yogis” Nick and I spent a lot of time folding ourselves into lotus pose, pouring salt water in one nostril and out the another, breathing furiously while practicing pranayama, eating apples, falling asleep during meditation (how embarrassing), staring at the lake and watching paragliders, playing drums and chanting in Sanskrit, and painting benches.

So, you may be wondering what a day in the life of a “real yogi” is like….silly music, fade to dark….

“Dong, Dong, Dong” the morning bell sounds just before six for meditation. Meditation is an hour of sitting cross-legged and silently repeating the mantra “So, Hum”. You do this while trying to keep your mind from wandering (impossible for Nick, which is why he only went once) and trying desperately to stay awake. After breathing the life back into our legs and wandering out into the misty morning air for tea, I was surprised that my mind was more clear and awake than usual in the morning. After tea, we would head down to the garden with a tea pot full of warm salt water. Once in the garden we would crouch down and pour the salt water into one nostril, letting it fall out the other – nose cleansing nettie pot style. This is actually an amazing feeling and anyone with a cold or serious allergies should look into this morning ritual.

After dancing around like a chicken trying to clear the remaining snot and saltwater our noses (yes this looked as funny as it sounds), we would head to morning yoga for some pranayama (breathing exercises) and serious stretching. By the time we were done we were starving, but unfortunately we still had an hour long walk around the mountain before our yummy breakfast would be served. It was around this time, on the first of seven days, that Nick realized there would be no coffee (meat, caffeine, and alcohol are big no-no’s in at yoga school). We were a few kilometers from town, making coffee difficult to obtain, and a crazed caffeine-starved panic swept through Nick so fast it made me laugh hysterically.

After breakfast we had our choice of a mud or steam bath, followed by two hours of free time, before another hour of meditation (soooo, hummmm…I was incapable of staying awake during this one for some reason), then a delicious Nepali lunch (dal bhat), another few hours of free time, Karma yoga (go on the roof and paint benches for the new dining room), chanting, more yoga, and finally dinner.

For the last three days we took part in a fast/cleanse to rid ourselves of stomach issues and, you know, to balance out our manipura chakra. Nick has no opinion on the current, past, or future status or existence of his manipura chakra. This is the part where we ate a lot of apples and were really hungry. I don’t want to talk about what happened on the 3^rd day (use your imagination) apart from the fact Nick and I both did very well.

Back in the lakeside area of Pokhara, we are relaxed and our colons are clean! That certainly doesn’t seem like Christmas, does it?

Late on Christmas Eve there are still quite a few mice stirring (and, shockingly, even a guinea pig that scampered around our lunch table today). Instead of Christmas songs we have Sanskrit chants stuck in our heads (“Jaya mata Kali, Jaya mata Durgai”). Lucky us! It is a very un-Christmasy Christmas. And speaking totally honestly, we don’t miss the hustle and bustle and last minute gift wrapping at all. What we do miss is our dear family and friends who we haven’t seen in so long and who seem so, so far away. While we don’t miss the corny music, we deeply miss sharing in the love and comforts of the season. Cherish your loved ones this holiday season, however you celebrate. Hugs to all from Nepal.

Shanti, Shanti, Shanti. Om.

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Kickin' it Around the Kathmandu Valley

9-13 December 2010

As the saying goes, “Nepal, once is not enough.” We agree.

We have spent the past few days seeing the sights near Kathmandu, enjoying some great food, and relishing in the peace and quiet (yes, after India, we find Kathmandu quite peaceful).

The Kathmandu Valley is littered with World Heritage cultural sites. During our last visit last visit we were on a strict trekking diet and are now enjoying this different taste of Nepal. Our first stop was the magnificent Bodhnath Stupa-just a short taxi ride from the center of Kathmandu. Surrounded with shops, restaurants, and hotels the magnificent, white and gold Bodhnath Stupa towers over its surroundings. Each day thousands of Buddhist pilgrims visit Bodhnath to pray, walking clockwise around the stupa, fingering their prayer beads, burning juniper incense, prostrating themselves in prayer, spinning prayer wheels, or lighting butter lamps. We joined in the mass of pilgrims making their ritual rounds at Bodhnath and watched as the late afternoon sun bathed this remarkable centerpiece of Buddhist devotion.

In the 17^th century three rival city states ruled the Kathmandu Valley. Powerful kings built grand palaces and temples in Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur. Each of the town’s centers (all called Durbar Square) showcase similar architecture with intricate stone and wood carvings and grand palaces surrounding wide central squares.

Having already visited Kathmandu’s Durbar Square we set out first to Patan. Patan showcases a myriad of temples of similar appearance and a lively, bustling atmosphere. We wandered the streets and narrow alleyways observing vegetable and souvenir sellers, marveled at the intricate stone and wood carvings and enjoyed some people watching from one of the town’s many rooftop cafes.

From Patan, we made our way to Bhaktapur, widely regarded as the best-preserved of the valley’s medieval cities. Bhaktapur is a wonderful place to explore. In contrast to both Patan and Kathmandu, where you spend half of your time dodging speeding taxis and motorcycles, much of Bhaktapur is closed to vehicle traffic. Here, you are free to roam backstreets, squares, and alleys-all of which are relatively free of traffic.

The architecture of Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square is roughly similar to Patan and Kathmandu, but upon closer inspection the place is truly unique-children hide your eyes. Several of the temples feature detailed carvings of men and women (sometimes many of them) engaged in creative erotic acts. In one famous carving, a woman multi-tasks by washing her hair while, well…Also, Bhaktapur’s erotic carvings are not restricted to humans alone. The Erotic Elephant Temple showcases carvings of elephants and sheep and lions doing what the birds and bees do. What an interesting place!

Wandering around Bhaktapur we stumbled upon dozens of shrines and temples devoted to various Hindu Gods. Fruit and vegetable sellers line the streets next to merchants peddling beads, paintings, and metalwork next to momo (like potstickers) wallahs cooking delicious Tibetan dumplings, clouds of steam wafting into the cool Himalayan winter air. One afternoon we wandered to Potters Square, and watched pottery being thrown on foot pedaled wheels.

The pottery is left in the sun to dry before being layered with straw in huge piles and fired for several days. The same afternoon we stumbled upon the Taduchen Bahal Monastery, with carvings depicting scenes of torture. In medieval times Bhaktapur’s residents would be well advised to be on good behavior and avoid having their teeth pulled, being strangled by a snake or their head rammed (by rams, of course). Bhaktapur is a quirky, beautiful, and a relaxing place.

Tomorrow we head west to Pokhara, Nepal’s third largest city-perched on the shore of Phewa Lake and below the Annapurna mountain range. During the next couple of weeks we will partake in 10 days of yoga and meditation (Ommmmm) and spend the New Year trekking below some of the world’s highest peaks.

We wish all of you a happy and healthy holiday season!

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